December Sales: A Dizzying Array of Dazzling Jewelry

Mary Ann Hensel | January 14th, 2013

Antique Jewelry & Gemology

Photos courtesy Skinner, Inc., Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Rago Arts and Auction Center, Bonhams, and Doyle New York

It wasn’t easy to keep track of antique jewelry auction results in December. They happened in rapid succession throughout the holiday season. They happened while I was preparing to go on vacation! When I’d normally be writing, I was swimming in 80-plus-degree water by a tiny island instead of shoveling snow in Maine. Now I am finishing the column on the upswing of the flu (a different kind of dizzy).

Focusing on the East Coast (with Bonhams New York also simulcasting to San Francisco and Los Angeles) narrowed it down a bit. Herewith is a brief synopsis garnered mainly from press releases, Web information, and through viewing several of the auctions on line before I flew out of Maine.

Skinner, Inc., Boston, Massachusetts

Skinner, Inc. held a fine jewelry sale on December 4, 2012, kicking off the holiday buying season. The 802-lot “highly successful sale grossed $3,693,963 including buyers’ premiums, surpassing the pre-auction estimate high,” according to the post-sale press release.

The top lot was a jadeite bead necklace that brought $348,000, more than four times the presale high estimate of $80,000.

An Edwardian Tiffany & Co. platinum and diamond pendant demonstrated “quite a bit of interest” presale, according to John Colasacco, specialist in fine jewelry at Skinner, Inc. The pendant sold for $18,000 (est. $8000/10,000).

Art Deco jewelry remains robust. A platinum and diamond long chain necklace realized $162,000, more than double its estimate of $40,000/60,000. The auction’s cover lot, an exquisite platinum and diamond pendant by Cartier, sold for $90,000 (see photos and captions).

An Art Deco platinum and diamond 41" long chain was one of the top lots of the Skinner sale. Bezel-set with 61 marquise-cut and 61 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total diamond weight of 40.00 carats, it sold well over high estimate for $162,000 (est. $40,000/60,000). Skinner.

This signed Tiffany & Co. Renaissance Revival 18k gold gem-set and enamel 1¼" diameter pendant/brooch was designed by Paulding Farnham. Set with circular-cut colored sapphires and old European-cut diamonds in platinum bezels on an enamel ground, it displays the “Beaver” mark of the 1901 exposition on reverse. Farnham produced extraordinary jewelry in the Renaissance style for the Pan-American Exposition, Buffalo, New York, in 1901, and the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, St. Louis, Missouri, in 1904. The jewelry featured colored sapphires promoted by Tiffany’s famed gemologist George Frederick Kunz. The pendant brooch sold for more than twice the high estimate at $27,600 (est. $8000/12,000). Skinner.

The catalog cover lot of the Skinner sale was this 2¼" diameter Art Deco platinum and diamond pendant/brooch signed for Cartier, France. Set with an old European-cut diamond weighing approximately 1.75 carats, further set with old European- and single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 12.50 carats, it has millegrain accents, the French maker’s mark, and a guarantee stamp. With a removable armature for pendant conversion, it sold well over the high estimate for $90,000 (est. $30,000/50,000). Skinner.

Sotheby’s, New York City

Sotheby’s “Magnificent Jewels” sale on December 5, 2012, included jewelry from the top tier of the market. Thirty-six of the lots on offer were from the collection of Evelyn H. Lauder. They sold to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF), which she founded in 1993. Lauder, daughter-in-law of Estée Lauder, “co-created the now-ubiquitous Pink Ribbon with SELF magazine, and launched The Estée Lauder Companies’ Breast Cancer Awareness Campaign (www.bcacampaign.com),” according to Sotheby’s presale press release.

Lauder’s fancy, intense pink diamond ring alone brought $8.6 million. The total raised for the cause was $22,248,250. This kind of money going to an organization that works toward prevention and cure warms the hearts of those who have experienced this disease (as well as their families and friends). According to Christie’s presale press release, “Currently, 91 cents of every dollar spent by BCRF is directed towards breast cancer research and awareness programs.”

Sixty-three lots from the collection of Mrs. Charles Wrightsman achieved $15.5 million. The top lot of the Wrightsman sale was a circa 1910 natural pearl and diamond corsage ornament, which sold for $2,042,500 after heated competition among seven bidders (est. $800,000/1.2 million).

An early 20th-century platinum, sapphire, and diamond ring, centered by an oval-shaped sapphire weighing 24.40 carats, flanked by two old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.00 carats, was accompanied by an AGL report stating that the sapphire is of Sri Lankan origin with no indication of heating. It sold well above high estimate for $182,500 (est. $80,000/120,000). Sotheby’s.

A circa 1910 platinum, demantoid garnet, and diamond brooch, with a cushion-cut demantoid garnet weighing approximately 5.80 carats set within openwork surrounds set with numerous old European- and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.15 carats, sold above high estimate for $37,500 (est. $20,000/30,000). Sotheby’s.

This pair of platinum, natural pearl, and diamond pendant earrings is set with two drop-shaped pearls measuring approximately 12.3 x 11.0 x 10.8 mm and 12.0 x 11.3 x 10.3 mm, topped by rose-cut diamonds (one missing) and suspended by two round diamonds weighing approximately 2.80 and 2.70 carats. Accompanied by a GIA report stating that the pearls are natural saltwater, the pair sold far over the high estimate at $140,500 (est. $50,000/70,000). Sotheby’s.

Rago Arts and Auction Center, Lambertville, New Jersey

A press release from Miriam Tucker at Rago gives us the year-end news. The jewelry and couture sale on December 9, 2012, followed several other target auctions, and Tucker wrote: “This weekend topped off the best year Rago has ever seen—over $28 million in sales—with three strong auctions in succession. There was no quarter where the bidding wasn’t strong—on line, on phones, in the room, absentee…Jewelry shone above all, which just seems right. We’re delighted.”

Some of the strong prices at Rago included the following: a 1925-30 Egyptian Revival turquoise necklace sold for $12,500 (est. $2000/3000); a circa 1875 Etruscan Revival 18k gold bracelet realized $6875 (est. $2000/3000); a 1927 French enameled 18k gold compact sold for $15,000 (est. $2500/3500); and a 1920 Lacloche Freres enameled gold necessary sold for $18,750 (est. $6000/8000).

A circa 1920 Cartier, France, Art Deco rose quartz and diamond pendulette has an engine-turned dial with Roman numeral markers and rose-cut diamond hands, a turquoise enamel bezel, a square semi-translucent rose quartz body, and an enameled gold strap handle with French marks. In the original leather case with key, the pendulette sold well above high estimate for $18,750 (est. $4000/6000). Rago.

This marked circa 1915 Louis Comfort Tiffany moonstone bracelet, 7½" x 3/8", mounted in platinum with cushion-shaped moonstone cabochon links that alternate with filigree diamond triplet links, sold for more than twice the high estimate at $15,000 (est. $4000/6000). Rago.

This circa 1930 Art Deco pearl, emerald, and diamond necklace is unmarked and 21½" long. The 89 saltwater pearls measure 7.29 to 3.91 mm. The lozenge-shaped platinum clasp has a rectangular emerald measuring 6.5 x 5.5 mm and two square baguette-cut diamonds weighing approximately .26 carat and 23 circular-cut diamonds weighing approximately .23 carat. Accompanied by an EGL pearl x-ray report describing the pearls as round, natural saltwater pearls, the necklace sold far past the high estimate for $27,500 (est. $3000/4000). Rago.

Christie’s, New York City

Christie’s top-tier “Magnificent Jewels” was the next sale, and the post-sale press release gives the numbers: “Christie’s New York saw a stellar finale to its fall auction season on December 10, [2012], with a blockbuster 300-lot sale of Magnificent Jewels at its flagship Rockefeller Plaza saleroom. The day-long sale realized a total of $32,541,625 with strong sell-through rates of 84% by lot and 86% by value.”

I noted the following lots that brought strong prices (along with those pictured) while I was viewing the auction on line: a circa 1929 Art Deco sapphire and diamond bracelet by Cartier sold for $134,500 (est. $70,000/100,000); a circa 1930 Art Deco diamond, emerald, and onyx bracelet brought $68,500 (est. $40,000/60,000); and a circa 1910 Belle Époque diamond and natural pearl necklace sold for $21,250 (est. $15,000/20,000).

A 1906-08 signed Rene Lalique Art Nouveau horn page turner, 2" x 20", depicting a realistically carved and stained fish swimming within the tapered textured horn panel came in a Lalique white satin case and sold within estimate for $92,500 (est. $80,000/120,000). Christie’s New York.

This circa 1925, signed Cartier, France, Art Deco emerald, diamond, and natural pearl bracelet, 7¼" long, mounted in platinum, is set with three fluted emerald beads spaced by single-cut diamond rondelles and flanked by two onyx beads and finishing with natural pearls. The pearls measure approximately 6.20 to 4.44 mm and are joined by a marquise-cut diamond clasp. With French assay marks, a maker’s mark, and a Cartier red leather case, it sold above high estimate for $230,500 (est. $125,000/185,000). Christie’s New York.

Designed as an openwork rectangular-cut sapphire and diamond brick link band, this Paul Flato circa 1935 Art Deco sapphire and diamond bracelet, 7" long, mounted in platinum, is signed “Flato.” Flato was known “not only for his charming personality but for his whimsical designs in gold and precious gems, catering to the most fashionable ladies in Hollywood, including Joan Crawford and Katharine Hepburn,” according to the catalog, which also states that the consignor of this bracelet “recalls playing with her mother’s ‘blue bracelet’ as a child in the mid-1940’s.” I don’t think anybody will consider this a “plaything” again. Rahul Kadakia, head of jewelry for Christie’s Americas and Switzerland, called the bracelet “spectacular” as he was auctioning it. It blew away presale estimates, realizing $338,500 (est. $120,000/180,000). Christie’s New York.

Doyle New York

Two days after the Christie’s auction, on December 12, 2012, there were two more auctions in New York City. The first was at 10 a.m. at Doyle New York. The 567-lot sale was described in its presale press release as “perfectly timed for the holidays,” offering “glittering creations for that special person on your list.”

A range of styles and designers that sold well at the Doyle sale include: a Jacques Chaumet natural pearl necklace with platinum and diamond clasp for $56,250 (est. $30,000/50,000); a circa 1950 signed Chanel gold, cabochon amethyst, and gem-set brooch for $37,500 (est. $20,000/30,000); a circa 1930 Art Deco platinum, diamond, and cabochon ruby pendant necklace/bracelet combination at $40,625 (est. $20,000/30,000); and an Art Nouveau gold, pink plique-a-jour enamel, ruby, synthetic ruby, and black enamel bangle bracelet by Marcus & Co. for $25,000 (est. $20,000/30,000).

This circa 1900 signed Tiffany & Co. polished 18k gold jewelry box, 6½" x 5 1/8" x 2", comes from the estate of Lucie Mackey Grant. The fitted green velvet interior includes a removable tray. It has a maker’s mark for Moore and an engraved monogram on the cover. The weight, without the velvet tray, is approximately 578 dwt. In very good condition, the box sold above estimate for $34,375 (est. $15,000/20,000). Doyle New York.

Another sign of the strength of sapphires in the market is the price realized for this Belle Époque platinum, sapphire, and diamond brooch. A cushion-shaped sapphire weighing approximately 25.00 carats is centered within an oval diamond-set frame accented by diamond-set scrolls. It is accompanied by an AGL report stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon (Sri Lanka) origin, with no gemological evidence of heat or clarity enhancement. It sold well above estimate for $53,125 (est. $12,000/18,000). Doyle New York.

Bidders went far past presale estimates for this circa 1930 Art Deco platinum, emerald, and diamond brooch, 1 1/8" x 2½". The modified shield-shaped brooch centers one cushion-shaped emerald weighing approximately 24.00 carats and is edged and flanked by 62 round and 68 baguette diamonds weighing approximately 6.40 carats. It realized $50,000 (est. $6000/8000). Doyle New York.

Bonhams New York (simulcast to San Francisco and Los Angeles, California)

At noon on December 12, 2012, Bonhams held the smallest auction of the group with 211 lots on the block. A “Salon” sale held later in the day offered “jewelry at all price points for collectors and jewelry lovers alike. From antique to contemporary designs, it was a great gift-giving sale for jewelry lovers looking to buy gifts for themselves or their loved ones.”

At the fine jewelry auction, a circa 1935 Art Moderne diamond and ruby brooch by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin, designed as a scrolling swirl of pavé-set round brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds and accentuated by cabochon and calibré-cut rubies, brought $37,500 (est. $30,000/50,000). The presale press release stated, “This striking brooch with its sculptural form represents the firm’s best work of the 1930’s. Their bold designs were favored by screen sirens Marlene Dietrich, Paulette Goddard, and Claudette Colbert, who wore them both on and off screen as statements of feminine glamour and audacity.”

A 1943 diamond, ruby, and turquoise “Clip Danseuse” brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels sold well above high estimate for $68,500 (est. $25,000/45,000). According to the press release, it was “a symbol of hope during the war…part of the ‘danseuse’ series inspired by Louis Arpels’s lifelong passion for dance.”

An antique sapphire and diamond necklace, 15½" long, mounted in silver-topped gold, centers a cushion-cut sapphire weighing 15.30 carats and is framed by old mine-cut diamonds and cushion-cut sapphires. It is completed by curved links suspending a fringe of pear-shaped sapphires accentuated by cushion-cut sapphires and highlighted throughout by rose-cut diamonds. The estimated total weight of the pear-shaped sapphires is 21.00 carats, and the estimated weight of the old mine-cut diamonds is 3.25 carats. It realized $122,500 (est. $100,000/200,000). Bonhams.

An Art Deco enamel, jadeite jade, and diamond case mounted in 18k gold with millegrain accents and bands of chinoiserie cloud motifs, centering a jadeite plaque carved with flowering foliage and bordered by rose-cut diamond and platinum vines, sold above high estimate for $10,625 (est. $8000/10,000). Bonhams.

This Verger Frères Art Deco enamel, diamond, and cultured pearl pendant watch mounted in 18k gold, 4" long, was retailed by Lacloche. It has a rectangular dial with black enamel Arabic numerals within a champlevé enamel case with chinoiserie motifs enclosing an 18-jewel movement with four adjustments. The dial is signed for Lacloche, and the case has a maker’s mark for Verger Frères and a French assay mark. With an approximate gross weight of 35.0 grams, it far exceeded high estimate, bringing $17,500 (est. $2500/3500). Bonhams.